How I Could Have Died

Yesterday was great fun. Went for a jog at lunch, sat inside and played on the computer at my desk, then went climbing after work... and could have died. "How" you ask? Let me tell you.

Since it finally warmed up enough this week to get outside, I was itching to go climbing. I left work to pick up my friend Alex and drove to yet another climbing area. We wanted to go somewhere that got good late-day sun and wasn't too far away so we could maximize our climbing time. He suggested a climbing wall across from the Wolcott boulders and I was in. The approach took about 20-30 minutes from the car. By the time we got set up, the sun was almost setting over a ridge, but there was still plenty of light.

We chose an easy route to start with. I took the first lead and immediately realized that although it wasn't a hard climb, it would be challenging due to the condition of the rock. There was lichen all over that kept you from getting a solid grip with either your hands or your feet. Plus alot of the holds had loose dirt in them which made them even more slippery. It was the equivalent of walking on marbles. Once I got past the third bolt, I was much more comfortable and cruised up the remainder of the route. After untying from the rope, it was Karen's turn. Alex was going last so he could clean the route.

Karen followed my route, unclipping the rope from the carabiners as she went. She made it to about the second or third bolt before she decided she had enough. So she came down and it was Alex's turn. He was going to lead it, so I started pulling the rope through the anchors. About halfway up the wall... disaster. The rope got stuck in one of the carabiners. Karen didn't know she was supposed to completely untie the figure eight, so the remaining knot got stuck in the biner.

Have you ever had one of those moments where something happens, you look at your friends, eyes as big as the moon, jaw wide enough to insert a watermelon, and can't help but nervously laugh? This was one of those times. Here were our options:

1. Alex or I could climb up to the point where the rope was caught - WITHOUT A ROPE - and tie in there.
2. We could hike out, drive back to Alex's car to get his rope, drive back, hike the 20-30 minutes back up, and retrieve all my gear.
3. I could walk around the side and find a way to scramble to the top so I could let the rope down.

The first option would be pretty dumb. If you remember, I mentioned that the condition of the rock wasn't that great. Not worth it to risk a 20-25 foot fall to the ground because you misstep on some lichen. The second option would be the safest, but would take too long. The sun was already setting over the ridge and it wouldn't be long before it was completely dark. Even with head lamps and the bright stars, not a very fun option. So off I went to scramble to the top.

As I scaled the easy boulders to the top, I pulled a classic move. "I wonder if there are any mountain lions around here?" DUMB Dan, just DUMB. Real smart to freak yourself out about something you have no control over just before you traverse some sketchy rock. I quickly reached the top and started the traverse over to the anchors. Crawling over loose rock, shifting dirt, and unknown territory is not the most confidence inspiring activity. I slowly made my way above the anchors and let out a huge sigh of relief... much too early. Now I had to climb down to the anchors. I have a healthy fear of heights. By that I mean I am freaked out about falling, but not so much that I lock up. You have to stay relaxed and comfortable to perform your best. But I still don't like the idea of falling 50-60 feet to a rocky ledge.

I assess the best way to climb down. My preference would be to clip into the anchors from above before climbing down, but they are just out of reach. There are two decent knobs I can grab to lower myself down, but they are still sandy, so I rub them down as much as possible before trusting my life to them. The ledge that I am on juts out slightly, so I can't really see if there are any decent feet below. This was the scariest part. Smearing my shoes on the face (wish I had brought my climbing shoes to the top with me), I carefully lower myself to the ledge below. Clip myself into the anchors. Breath of relief. Breath of life. Thank GOD (whatever you believe god to be) I didn't fall.

From there I was able to send the taunting rope down. Clipped onto the rope for my rappel, and down I went, unclipping the remaining carabiners from the rope as I passed them. Safely at the bottom, it was very near dark.

Dan: "Well there's a lesson to be learned in all of this. Always check the end of the rope before you pull it. I'll always remember from now on."

There was still time for Alex to climb (and my anchors were still at the top), so I started pulling the rope again. Pulled the rope halfway...

Dan: "Did you guys untie the knot?"

Karen: "That was the first thing we did when the rope got down."

Dan: "Maybe I didn't learn my lesson?"